Unit 12 – Measurements and specifications

silhouettes

Another basic concept in fashion design is the silhouette, which represents the exterior line of a figure. There are different types of silhouettes:

– Sheath: this is the form-fitting female silhouette
– Straight Column: it is a rectangular shape from the armhole level to the lower opening.

– Trapeze: this is a wide silhouette from the armhole to the hem, opening up slowly without defining the bust.

– A line: it defines the bust and waist, then continues opening a little until the hemline.

– Empire: it defines the bust with a raised waistline and opens up to the hemline.

– High-waist: it defines the bust and the waist. The cut opens down to the hemline.

– Low-waist: it can define the bust and starts below the waistline, opening towards the hemline.

Neckline types

These variations define the designs for the neck and shoulders. Necklines usually have the following shapes:

• Crew neck
• Round neck
• U-neck
• V-neck
• Squareneck
• Sweetheart
• Halter strap
• Off-shoulder
• Boat/ Bateau
• Strapless
• Strapless rounded
• One-shoulder
• Wrap neck

Hem lenghts

There are two types of hemline: symmetrical and asymmetrical. In asymmetrical hemlines, the distances between the back and front and the sides can vary.
The most common hem lengths for a dress, for example, are as follow:

• Mini: this hem length is slightly above the short hem length and much higher than the knees.
• Short: just above the knees.
• Executive: slightly below the knees.
• Midi: mid-leg.
• Maxi: ankle level or a little lower.

Waistline types

The diffrent waistline types define the tightness and resulting volume in the upper and lower part of the garment. The fitting in the waistline and bust can be adjusted using darts, either in the center or only in the bust area. The use of darts can be combined with the volume of the lower part of the dress.

Our expert suggests a few common types of darts:

• Complete
• Upper and lower
• Upper
• Sided in the bust area and with pleats in the lower part
• Sided in the bust and the lower part
• Gathered in the center to add volume
• Gathered in the center to add volume in the upper and lower parts
• Sided in the center and gathered in the lower part
• Gathered in the center to add volume in the lower and upper parts.

Sleeve types

You can generally modify sleeves according to the silhouette or the volume. In terms of silhouette, the sleeves can be:

• String
• Thick strap
• Halter
• Tank
• Rounded
• Short
• Medium
• Three quarter length
• LongIn terms of volume, the sleeves are:

  • Fitted
  • Baggy
  • Puffed
  • Raglan
  • Bat-wing • Kimono

  The above is only a small selection, as there are many other types with different construction from the pattern. Some can be modified from the original pattern, for others you’ll need to develop a specific pattern.

…